SpecRacer Enterprises & CSR News
New Seat Option - SCCA-E has developed a new seat option that will allow drivers to use expanding foam or a bead insert. The seat frame is similar to the fiberglass stock seat but has a larger seating volume to accept the custom foam insert. The seat should be available next year. This will allow different drivers to quickly install a new seat inserts for endurance races.
New Sprung Hub Clutch Disc - The new SRF3 Kevlar Sprung Hub Clutch Disc has been tested with very positive results production is going forward. Look for a 1st quarter introduction.
New Brakes – The new Wilwood brakes are in full production and are currently shipping on new cars. The brakes will not be available until after the January races in California and Florida.
Winter and the off season is a great time to do annual maintenance. Annual maintenance is a good way of finding and reducing failures at the track. The following includes; a summary of the maintenance, details on recommended maintenance, and information on parts that you might need.
Shock Check or Rebuild – The shock check is at the top of the list because it can take weeks if you have them checked or rebuilt. There are three options; one is to do nothing, the other is to have them performance tested, and the last is to send them off to be rebuilt. If the shocks or car is new and you were running well at the end of last season then probably doing nothing is OK. If you think the shocks are getting old and your lap times are not where they should be consider one of the other options.
Shock testing can be done at most high-end racing shops on a shock dyno or you can send them to AccelRaceTek, they can turn them in about a week. The recommended shops that can rebuild the shock are on the AccelRaceTek website. We recommend sending them to Penske in Reading Pa. or Performance Shock, Inc. in Sonoma Ca.
Pressure Washing – We recommend removing all of the body covers to allow for a good cleaning and inspection. We warm up the car and with the engine running spray the engine with an engine degreaser. Focus the degreaser on the lower end of the motor (or where the grime is) and not the ignition and exhaust. Spraying the spindle and brake area isn’t a bad idea too. After a few minutes, use a pressure washer or spay nozzle, on a hose, to spray down the car. We restart the engine and then use a leaf blower to blow off most of the water. Let the motor run until most of the water has evaporated.
Safety Check – Check the fire bottle expiration date and the gauge to be sure it is still full and/or in the green area. Check the dates on the seat belts to be sure they have not expired. Also, check the seat belts for any signs of wear or defects. Replace as necessary.
Half Shaft Check or Repack – Depending on the last time the half shafts were replaced or repacked you should consider repacking them. At a minimum check the boots for leakage and for any wear or cracking. Replace and repack as necessary.
Wheel Bearing Check or Replace – Depending on the last time the wheel bearings were replaced you should consider replacing all of the bearings. At a minimum check the bearing slop with a dial indicator to be sure the slop does not exceed +/- .003”. If you don’t replace the bearings at least re-torque the front hub nuts and the rear axle nuts.
Brake Maintenance – Rebuilding the wheel cylinders should be done every season. Remove the wheel cylinders, disassemble them, clean them with brake cleaner, and then inspect them. Replace the Viton O-rings and the rubber dust boots which cover the pistons. To make assembly easier use a little brake fluid to lubricate the pistons, do not use grease. It is a good idea to replace the bleeder valve/screws or at least remove them and check them. Check the brake pads and rotors and replace as necessary. The rotor thickness should be checked and the lower thickness limit is 13.25mm (0.522 in.). Install the rotors, pads and rebuilt cylinders and torque to specs. Then flush and bleed the lines using a high temperature brake fluid.
Engine Maintenance – It is a good idea to pull the plugs and look at their color and replace if necessary. If the plug color looks different and/or you haven’t had the injectors flow check, sending them off to be flow tested should be considered. AccelRaceTek has flow matched injectors for exchange or can flow test your injectors. At the same time check the plug wires for abrasion and cracks.
This is a good time to pull and check the alternator belt. Small rock can build up in the grooves and they should be removed before installing the belt.
Check the air cleaner and clean it or for a GEN 2 replace it. For a GEN 3 you will have to clean the filter, go to the K&F or AccelRaceTek website for instructions.
The last thing is to drain the oil, replace the oil filter, and add new oil.
Transaxle Fluid Change – Drain the transaxle and look at the old oil for fine metallic particles and/or larger pieces of steel. Any of these are an indication the transaxle might have problems in the future. The transaxle has an internal magnet that collects normal levels of particulate.
Coolant Check – Check the level and color of the coolant. If the coolant hasn’t been changed in years and/or it is very rusty looking you might want to consider changing it.
Complete Nut & Bolt – Check as many nuts and bolts, as feasible, to be sure they are tight and at the same time do a general check.
Rod End Check – Go around the suspension and check the rod ends. It they have any issues replace them. We recommend replacing the rear outer lower rod ends, these have the highest loads and they break more often than any other rod end.
Hose Check – Go around the car and check the water lines, oil lines, and fuel lines for wear and any leaks. Also check the lines for cracks and hardening. It they have any issues replace them.
Frame Crack Check – Walk around the frame and do a visual check of all of the critical frame rails. Also check the upper and lower steering shafts for cracks, these shafts have been known to break during a race, not good.
Align the Car – It is a good time to put the car on the scales and check the alignment. It is also a good time to check the bump steer on both the front and the rear.
New Radiator – Consider changing to the new high cooling capacity radiator. This new radiator was designed for the SpecRacer and has about 20% more cooling that the old Brat radiator.